Jewellery buyer's guide



Why buy jewellery?


Jewellery has a long lifespan, and quality jewellery will maintain its value. We can wear the items we consider important and dear to us for decades. Through them we can remember past events and atmospheres, travels and other highlights of our lives. Indeed a part of their charm is their ability to take us back in time.

The various phases we go through in our lives may leave us with only few tangible mementoes. As Zsa Zsa Gabor put it: "I never hated a man enough to give back the diamonds." No matter what life brings our way, premium jewellery lasts forever.

Style

We are often encouraged to buy jewellery that is considered classic, on the grounds that they endure over time. The current style of the time the jewellery was purchased will be visible even in the classic jewellery, so the best advice is to buy the model that you really like. In addition to revealing its vintage, the model will also tell a story about when and why it was bought. Jewellery is meant to be fallen in love with, not merely become attached to over time.

Flashy or modest?


Jewellery is meant to show, why else would we buy them? The highly ornate and flamboyant type of jewellery that is popular in the United States is scarcely available in Finland, so the risk of going over the top is practically non-existent with the range that is offered domestically. The Scandinavian style that is popular here does not equal humility, but clean graphical lines. When shopping for jewellery it is best to keep an open mind, as the eventual favourite may be something completely unexpected.

The most important thing in buying jewellery is that it suits its wearer. Contrary to common belief, the wearer's size does not by default define how large or extravagant jewellery they can wear. A large piece of jewellery can look just as good on a petite person.

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If you are buying jewellery as a gift, play it safe. Find out beforehand what type and size of jewellery the recipient prefers and then look for something along those lines.

Practicality

It is true, particularly when choosing a ring, that one must consider the circumstances the jewellery will be worn in. Some diamond settings are such that with bad luck the jewellery might for example snag on fabrics, but this should never be caused by a sharp point that is not part of the design of the product. However, there are enough different settings and models that every wish and every purpose can be met with a suitable solution.

If the occupation of the owner prevents them from wearing jewellery, buying a smooth and invisible jewel is not necessarily the right answer. If the item truly cannot be worn at work, the jewel can still be chosen freely and worn outside the working hours.

Budget for an engagement or wedding ring

Once the wedding day has passed, the only things that remain, besides the spouse, are the photos and the rings, which is why they are worth the investment. In other countries it is customary to spend much more on rings than we do here in Finland: in United States the appropriate price is the groom's two months' gross salary, and in Japan four months'. In Finnish families it is highly likely that the wheels of the car cost twice as much the rings on the fingers.

Nonetheless, this does not mean that only the most expensive will suffice, but that both parties should be pleased with their rings. At their best rings are symbols of love and commitment that are passed down through generations, and therefore needless compromises should be avoided.

If the jewel will be worn only occasionally, the metal weight does not need to be as high. If the jewel will be worn every day, like engagement- and wedding rings, it's worth keeping in mind that the metal weight of the jewel is directly proportional to its durability.

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If the engagement- and wedding bands are going to be worn together, you should try on wedding rings already when shopping for an engagement ring. Later on you may find it difficult to find a wedding ring that fits together well with your engagement ring, and that you can be happy with.

Having two rings is by no means mandatory. You may just as well get one ring that's perhaps a bit flashier. This way you can choose a model that might not so easily be worn together with another ring.

Quality of the workmanship

The jewellery should not bear any signs of being handcrafted. The seams should be invisible, and the lines should be clean. Unintentionally rough or uneven surfaces are not acceptable. Unfinished and slipshod manufacturing, and an intentionally rustic style are two altogether different things.

Diamond settings

Prong setting is the most traditional one, and the best for bringing out the characteristics of the diamond. And yes, it is also the one that will snag on your pantyhose. However when properly finished, the setting will have no palpably sharp edges. Despite its popularity, prong setting is best suited for a person who remembers to be a little cautious with it. A prong setting is the setting for a high-grade diamond, as it tends to highlight any imperfections.

Bezel setting
käytetään erityisesti pienien timanttien istuttamiseen. Tavoitteena on saada aikaan säkenöivä timanttijono, jossa timantit ovat mahdollisimman lähellä toisiaan. Tämä istutus vaatii rungolta jonkin verran vahvuutta.

Channel setting is used especially when setting small diamonds. The aim is to create a sparkling line of diamonds where the diamonds are spaced as close to each other as possible. This type of setting requires a certain level of rigidity from the body of the piece.

Bead setting is also suitable with small diamonds. A small hole for the diamond is drilled into the body of the jewel, and the attachment itself is made with small metal beads, hence the name for the setting. Over a broader surface a well-made bead setting forms a pavé setting, a "diamond carpet" if you will. The beads may actually add to the lustre of the diamond. Make sure that the diamonds are set close enough to each other, and that they are correctly aligned.

The colour of the gold

White gold has become very popular over the last few years, and the popularity shows no signs of fading. From a diamond ring perspective that is a good thing, as diamonds are most visible when set in white gold. The majority of Oy Tillander Ab jewellery is sold in white gold.

However, the jewel does not have to be entirely of white gold. The diamond setting can be white gold and the rest of the jewel can be yellow- or even rose gold.

Yellow gold is a perennial favourite, and the lion's share of all jewellery sold in Finland is yellow gold. Yellow gold has made a global comeback as a trendy choice, but it remains to be seen if the trend will carry over to practical fashion.

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The settings in yellow gold are better for hiding colour impurities in the diamond.

In recent years, however, the most fashionable choice has been rose gold. The trend, most probably having originated in the watch industry, has found its way into jewellery as well. All jewellery manufacturers call this colour by slightly different names. This is in part due to the variation in the hues of colour in the gold, but it's also a way to differentiate oneself from the competition.

Oy Tillander Ab uses the unequivocal term rose gold; it is like a red shade of yellow gold, and suits the complexion of some people's skin tremendously well.

Rose gold is a specialty and is the colour least commonly offered. Even in Oy Tillander Ab's catalogue line-up only a few models come in rose gold. It is the same price, however, as white- or yellow gold.

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The colour of your jewellery should follow your own preference, the style of the item in question, and intuition. The notion that all your gold jewellery should be of the same colour is old fashioned.

The characteristics of gold

A carat (ct), or alternately karat (kt), denotes the purity of gold. The purest gold is 24 carats (24k) and yellow in colour. As pure gold is very soft, it isn't suitable for use in jewellery.

The gold Oy Tillander Ab uses is 18k which is to say it is 75% pure gold, or 750 by the millesimal fineness system. Our gold alloys and manufacturing methods ensure the durability of our products, which means that Oy Tillander Ab products are always very hard. Thus, a high 18k carat figure does not always equal soft and easily scratched jewellery.

The most common sold gold content in Finland is 14k, which is 58,5% pure gold. This means that in 14k-gold barely more than half of its weight is actually gold.

Platinum

Platinum still sits on the throne of the jewellery world. The platinum sold in Finland is always 95% pure by minimum. Platinum has a greater unit weight than gold. Platinum is also harder than gold, but it's more susceptible to fracture. Oy Tillander Ab manufactures platinum jewellery by order.

Rhodium plating

Platinum, as well as white gold, is often rhodium plated to achieve a deeper shine. The rhodium wears off with time, so it's smart to repeat the procedure from time to time, especially for rings. Rhodium is also a precious metal.